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How thick should a cold room panel be

Panel thickness follows the temperature difference across it, not the room temperature alone. How to work it out, and where the electricity bill decides.

Published 2026-11-15 · 6 min read · All guides

Thickness is not chosen from a catalogue by room temperature. It follows the temperature difference across the panel — inside air against outside air — and that difference changes with where the room is built.

A −18 °C store in Hanoi and a −18 °C store in Harbin carry the same internal temperature but not the same load. The Harbin room faces −20 °C outside in January; the Hanoi room faces 38 °C. Over a year the two rooms lose heat at different rates, and the panel that is adequate for one is oversized or marginal for the other.

What the thickness actually resists

Heat crosses a panel by conduction. The rate depends on three things:

Factor What it means in practice
Temperature difference Larger difference, more heat flow, thicker panel
Panel core conductivity PU and PIR differ; density and foam quality matter more than the name
Surface area and joints A room with many panel joints leaks more than the same area with fewer

The first one is what most specifications are written around. The other two are where cheap panels lose.

Working from the difference

A practical starting range, before any calculation:

Room condition Difference to outside Typical thickness
Chilled, 0 to +5 °C 30 to 40 °C 100 mm
Frozen, −18 °C 50 to 60 °C 150 mm
Low temperature, −25 °C and below 60 °C and above 200 mm
Blast freezer, −35 °C 70 °C and above 200 mm, sometimes 220 mm

Treat these as a starting point, not an answer. Two rooms in the same band can land on different thicknesses once the local summer design temperature and electricity price are in.

Where the electricity bill decides

Thicker panel costs more once — at purchase. Thinner panel costs more every month — the compressor runs longer to remove the heat that gets through.

The trade-off has a break-even point, and it moves with the price of power:

This is the calculation worth doing, and it needs the local tariff, not a rule of thumb.

Three places where thickness is not the problem

When a room will not hold temperature, the panel is not always the cause:

  1. Floor insulation omitted — a frozen room without underfloor protection loses heat downward and risks frost heave
  2. Joints and penetrations — pipe entries, door frames and panel joints leak more than the panel face
  3. Door traffic — an open door exchanges more heat in a minute than the walls lose in an hour

Before adding thickness, check these three. Adding 50 mm to the walls will not fix an unsealed pipe penetration.

What to send us

To size the panel we need:

With those four, the thickness, the core and the joint detail follow.

Questions

Is thickness decided by room temperature alone?

No. It follows the difference between inside and outside. A −18 °C room in Hanoi and one in Harbin carry the same internal temperature but not the same load, so the panel that suits one may be oversized or marginal for the other.

Can one thickness serve the whole building?

Only if every room runs at the same temperature. Most plants hold a chilled room, a frozen store and a blast freezer in one building — three different differences, three different panels.

Does a thicker panel always pay for itself?

Not always. It saves running cost, but the saving depends on the local electricity price and the climate. In a mild climate with cheap power the thinner panel can win over ten years; in a hot climate with expensive power the thicker one usually pays back in a few years.

What if the room will not hold temperature?

Check the floor insulation, the pipe penetrations and the door traffic before adding thickness. Adding 50 mm to the walls will not fix an unsealed penetration or a door that stands open.

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